The Rough Life

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Getting paid $100,000+ to do what you love? I know what you are thinking, “ya, right! Maybe in another lifetime.” People who make that type of money are obviously born ridiculously talented and just so happen to be in the right place at the right time. Lucky souls who stumble into a dream lifestyle…right? Wrong. Okay maybe there are a rare few who just happen to make it big for no apparent reason, but the vast majority have spent their life doing more homework, working longer hours, jumping hurdle after hurdle, and developing a sharp self discipline.

The flashy neon advertisements for get rich quick schemes hypnotize us into believing that the cure to our money woes resides in buying and selling crappy art prints that are sure to double in value in the next five minutes. Through my own experiences and chatting with some highly successful people like top pro surfers and their crew will have you thinking otherwise.

The definition of success varies from person to person. In the West, money, business and capitalism hold the reins. To be “successful” is to have a truck load of money, a big house, a beautiful barbie-like wife, and a car that shines brighter than the sun. Or any other material possession that one can flaunt in order to make others feel less than whole because their garage lacks horsepower and low profile tires.

Let’s bypass those money hungry souls and turn to those who live by their passions and within their means. These are the people who will go to the ends of the Earth, literally, to do what they love. A life of luxury is worthless without a rush of creativity, energy, and enthusiasm. Whether that be dancing center stage, carving a barrel, or finishing off the second chapter of a novel. The creative types who society tends to frown upon. “You’re a dancer…oh….cool, but what do you really do?” The conversation invariably ends with an ego rambling of what makes what they do so great and successful.

People who have no passion or drive to do what they love have absolutely no clue or right to judge what a life like mine entails. How disciplined I’ve had to be to perfect my craft, how many hours I’ve spent under self scrutiny and outside judgment. Passion junkies do what they love because they couldn’t live without them. Nothing is more honest and real then putting yourself on the line every day for something you believe in. Courage to wear your heart on your sleeve with pride.

I bring this up because two weeks ago I randomly met some passions seekers like myself. Pro surfers and their astounding crew of photographers and writers, to be exact. Being born and raised in a surf mecca like Santa Cruz, CA had me engulfed in surf culture from the day I caught my first wave body surfing. I don’t surf (dance was always my “sport”), but grew up surrounded by guys and gals who loved breaks more than words. Living by the tides and weather for a chance to ride perfect barrels. They’d happily grow gills and forever reside among the kelp and otters.

Okay so surfers don’t always have the best rap. A stereotype of weed smoking, school dropouts who don’t care about much else but the ocean is pretty standard. I hate generalizations though and find that I relate with surfers more than most people due to their desire to pursue their passions no matter the costs.

Below is my interview with surf photographer D.J. Struntz and Editor and Chief, Travis Ferre, of Surfing Magazine. At the time they were traveling with 5 of the top pro surfers in the world…

I had the pleasure of chatting with these two at a neighborhood cafe for an hour or so. I randomly met D.J. when I noticed him struggling with the wi-fi at his hostel. “There’s a fast and most importantly free connection next door.” I offered. Thus began the swapping of travel stories and reminiscing of life back home in CA. As the curious soul that I am, I picked their brains about life on the road, living the dream and what it took to get where they were.

For those of you who don’t know Surfing Magazine, it’s a world renowned surf mag that works intimately with the planets best surfers. The pros they were traveling with were between the ages of 20-23yrs old and are arguably the worlds best up and coming surfers. The lowest paid on the tour is making $100,000, the most a whopping $750,000 a year. Talk about living the life! These guys get paid to surf all day and party all night. Yes they might have a natural gift, but lets give them credit for the endless days, months and years out in the water.

I was even more excited to hear from D.J. and Travis about how they had landed such cush jobs. Travis, at 26, is the Editor and Chief of the mag. Beyond merely writing for the magazine and website, he manages the finances, travel agenda, and the rest of the business. His visions sculpting the future of the magazine and online presence. All at 26 years old! After a quick chat with Travis, I learned he knew from his first few years in college that he wanted to work for the legendary publication. Combining his love of surf and writing. He took an internship with the company and four years of hard work later was promoted to Editor and Chief. He had the vision and the passion and went for it.

DJ’s background includes years of work and study as a marine biologist coupled with a love of surf. Swimming for eight hours a day in the worlds largest surf in order to capture a cover shot is no easy task. He compared the type of training required in order to stay in shape for the job to that of a Navy Seal. These guys were humble and real. A pleasure in an industry full of egos.

When work and passion blur is when you know you’ve found true bliss. These guys happen to be in an industry that pays well for their passion and jet sets them to utopian locales every couple months. And yet, you don’t have to be in the surf industry to do what they do. When there’s a will there’s a way. As I have found fusing my passions for dance, health and travel. Now go find your happy medium!

Photographs above were snapped by D.J. I hope he doesn’t mind me using them. Check out more of his prints here.